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Pruning:
from Roses to Redwoods ....

specialist pruning service

passionate about pruning ...

A wall clothed in foliage & flowers is a joy. Wisteria is notoriously tricky but with skill one can enjoy a breathtaking couple of weeks in spring. Unfortunately, the racemes of flowers last only a short while, but they are worth working & waiting for.

  On this wall the 'Smoke Bush' Cotinus coggygria is trained round the corner of the wall giving a real contrast of deep purple circular leaves.
 
The Wisteria (and pooch 'Zero') at Dave's cottage

how not to prune...

Perhaps the greatest sin against shrubs must be the transforming of the wonderful natural shapes of different shrubs, into 'blobs'. This happens when they are attacked by a set of shears or now more usually hedge trimmers.

Here, the delicate form & foliage of Lonicera newly transformed into 'blobs'
 
Laurel, following a hard prune.

Laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is vigorous & often gets out of control. Though it is ¦best never to leave such a stumpy plant as we have here, it grows back so fast that one can forgive this approach if it really has got to be too much.

In a year or two this shrub should be natural looking again & manageable in size. The trick is then to prune each year to keep it, if necessary, within bounds, without having to resort to this measure again.

Pyracantha. This wonderfully orange berried, glossy leaved spiny shrub looks wonderful on a wall. Trained properly, it's fans of shoots can draw attention away from an ugly wall. Berries in vibrant orange attract birds & the eye.

Here though, shears have robbed it of berries, form & flowers for next year. It looks as ugly at the harled wall behind it.

Shrubs at a Liberton Surgery in the process of being transformed into one big blob
An array of different species above are transformed before ones eyes into one big blob. Visit Edinburgh's Botanic Garden to see how it should be done.
 

The advantages of sensitive pruning:

 

Maximise the flowering / berrying potential & with it scent

 

Being able to appreciate the contrasts & natural differences in colour, texture & form of different shrubs & trees.

 

The shrub being able to show itself off to it's full potential & size.

 

Value for money! A shrub which is allowed to grow to it's full size looks great & costs you less in filling the space with something else, or controlling the weeds. A large shrub will suppress a lot of weeds.

 
Shrubs have an optimum size they will grow to. Then they stop. Many people are frightened they'll go on forever but when they have reached maturity with careful pruning they can look magnificent.
  At Edinburgh's Royal Botanic Garden, most of the shrubs & trees are not pruned at all. This way they reach their full natural size, shape & form without interference. Planting location is important.
 
If a shrub is going to be too large for it's space, realising this early enough & moving it in winter, only a few feet sometimes, can give it the space it deserves, & you the joy of watching it fully develop. Be sure to get as large a root ball as possible & water in well in the new position.
 
A new approach for the 'blobbers': Prune only when necessary,

Prune when your shrubs threaten to engulf a pathway or your trees when they interfere with road ways or services. It is always best to be one step ahead & tackle the problem - before it becomes a problem - as the resulting pruning will not need to be so harsh & will leave a more natural looking result.

 
Leave the shears & hedge cutters in the shed:

If you keep on top of a creeping Cotoneaster or Juniper before it covers your path, you can maintain a natural shape by delving deep & taking out the longest shoots from well within the plant. The cuts will be hidden & those fronds not cut will leave you a natural looking plant. Don't get the shears out unless you want to see a hard edge of cut surfaces, many of which will die back.

 
Certain shrubs, climbers & trees have their own specific requirement which sometimes go against the 'general rules' but you can find out about these easily if you can identify the shrub concerned. eg. Wisteria is best pruned twice each year as it is so vigorous. Good advice can be found at www.gardenseeker.com/pruning
 
  Roses are best pruned twice too because a prune after flowering can stop rocking of the plant by the autumn winds. This can badly effect the root ball. If you take off about half the growth, the wind resistance will be minimised. Prune back to 4 - 5 buds in the spring.
 
The blobs: what to do....?

If you have a lollipop Lonicera or a 'blobbed' Berberis the good news is: Do nothing for a couple of years. After that, depending how often they were 'blobbed' the centres may benefit from opening out. This is done by reaching in with the secateurs or loppers & pulling out whole stem where the plant is most dense. Most pruning should be done after flowering but see www.gardenseeker.com/pruning for details on specific plants.

More general rules:

If you prune in the dormant period (winter) plants will be vigorous when they come into growth. Pruning in the growing season tends more to check the plant & you will not get the same explosion of growth.

 
Of-course pruning correctly does take longer & may cost you twice as much each time. But you see your shrubs all year round. It just has to be worth it.
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Burgher Chapel
3 Clinton Street
Newburgh
Fife KY14 6DP

email: dave
mobile: 07970 744986
landline:
01337 841004  
Dave Peering through Ice Sculpture